If you’re just getting into photography and you’ve been reading everything you can get your hands on to learn about taking great photos like I did, you’ve undoubtedly read about exposure value, usually abbreviated as EV. But exactly what is exposure value, and for that matter, exposure itself?
One of the most difficult aspects of photography in broad daylight is to ensure that both the ground and sky are properly exposed. Often times what will happen is that the sky will be completely blown-out and show as bright white (or close to it) in the photo. This makes for a pretty boring image. Today, I’m going to show you 6 ways to prevent blown-out skies in your photos.
HDR photographs are produced by combining multiple copies of the same image recorded at different exposures. Adobe Lightroom is one software package that makes it very easy to combine these multiple exposures into a single HDR image. It’s so simple in fact, that it can be done with literally 2 clicks.
There are many different ways of shooting HDR photos, but today we’re going to look at HDR photography using Exposure Bracketing. This is a bit more work than using your camera’s built-in HDR mode but offers a number of advantages such as the ability to shoot in RAW format, and more control over the end result.
One of my favorite times of year in Vancouver is the three-week period between mid-March and early April when the 40,000+ cherry blossom trees throughout the city are in full bloom. They are literally on every street and it’s a really amazing sight if you ever get the chance to go there.
As I understand it, the majority of these trees were gifted to Canada by Japan after WWII. Be sure to check out this great interactive map provided by the city that shows all of the cherry blossom tree locations, whether they are in bloom or not, and highlights the favorite locations.
I took the opportunity on March 16 to head out and take some really great shots at one of my favorite locations.
One of the most striking things about truly exceptional photographs of people is when they have bright, remarkable, eyes. It’s one of those things that really gives photos that wow-factor. In this guide, I’m going to show you how to brighten eyes in Photoshop and make them truly stand out.
If you’re like me, the last thing you want to be lugging around all day is a big heavy tripod in addition to the rest of your gear. And if you’re moving around between different locations a lot, it’s such a pain in the butt to be constantly setting up and tearing down.
But I do it anyway.
A good tripod is probably the most important piece of camera gear you’ll ever buy… much more important than that fancy new filter. And how many different lenses do you really need anyway?
Like any other photography equipment though, there’s a whole slew of different features and options available, and with price ranging from as little as $20 all the way up into the thousands, it’s important that you choose the right tripod for you. That’s what this guide to buying a tripod aims to do.
One of my favorite photography tricks is to shoot photos with a blurry background effect, also known technically as bokeh. It really draws attention to the subject you are focusing on in your photo while still giving the viewer an idea of the overall context in which it was taken.
The trend with photographers these days seems to be along the lines of ignoring lighting issues during the shoot and to fix them in Photoshop afterward. It’s certainly possible to do this in most cases, but not always. The best example of an unfixable issue is if the sky is completely blown out compared to the foreground. That light & color information is lost forever.
Luckily there’s a very cheap and easy remedy to this. Today, I’m going to talk about 4 filters that every photographer should have in their camera bag. A filter is simply a small, circular pane of glass that screws onto the lens of your camera, modifying the light in some way before it enters. Let’s take a look.
Have you ever seen a photograph of a waterfall, where the water is smooth as silk? Or how about a photo of a dolphin jumping out of the water where the dolphin itself is sharply focused and not blurred beyond comprehension? You can’t achieve those looks yourself using the camera’s auto mode, unfortunately.
Today I’m going to try to shed some light on the three most important settings in your DSLR camera that control how it actually takes a photo: Aperture, ISO, and shutter speed. These three parameters are related to each other so you need to understand all three to get the whole concept. When you operate your camera in auto mode, it’s primarily these three things that the camera is controlling for you. To progress as a photographer and take better photos, though, you really need to be operating your camera in one of the manual modes. This gives you infinitely more control over the look of your photographs.
The Tripod Collective